Trip Report - May 22-29 (Part Two) long

Saturday, 5/26:

Another groovin’ sunrise %26amp; quick breakfast before our big south shore drive. Used the Kapa’a Bypass Rd to save some time!

Took Koke’e Road (west shore views) up to Waimea Canyon Overlook (views all clear at 9:30am).

Then, through Koke’e Park, up to Lalalau Valley Overlook (still clear)

Lucked out…the road to Pu’u o kila Overlook was open!!! No two mile roundtrip road hike. Spotted a ranger sitting in a truck in the parking lot, so I asked when it had opened…he replied, “today – only for today.” No elaboration, so we walked away???

Hiked the Pihea Trail (2 mile roundtrip) – nice ridge views %26amp; not strenuous.

Considered doing more hiking but it looked like heavy clouds were about to roll in.

Took Waimea Canyon Dr on the way down (much better views)

Overall, the landscape on most of the West %26amp; South Shores was not impressive. The dry arid, rolling hills felt like Northern California, where we reside. We’re definitely North Shore people!

Stopped at the Shrimp Station in Waimea for lunch

(coconut shrimp w/ fried, Thai shrimp over rice %26amp; 2 sodas – very good, about $25)

Also, tried Jo-Jo’s Original Shaved Ice…(not the one on the highway, it’s around the corner on the side street – thanks everyone!) – our favorite on Kauai!

Quick drive through Hanapepe…was hoping for a funky artsy community but sorely disappointed. (Amy is a painter %26amp; into ceramics). I know Friday Nights are supposedly hopping but it was such a small area that even with music and vendors, I think it would seem dinky and run down. The residential areas along the river were interesting too - everything appears stained with red dirt.

Checked out Salt Pond Beach…(packed with mostly locals, Memorial Day Weekend %26amp; surf was rough, so we split)

A quick stroll through Koloa – (very busy 2 block area with lots of shops %26amp; food)

Back through Poipu %26amp; stopped at Spouting Horn (nice picture spot %26amp; souvenir shopping)

Took a side trip to the Polynesian Festival in Lihue but it seemed pretty small %26amp; low key and I knew admission was $10, so we declined.

Went out to Moloa’a Bay/Beach on the way home…We had considered staying here but opted for Anini instead (very nice beach – we found parking and strolled the entire length). Beautiful but not the best for swimming. Locals seemed extremely protective – trying to keep it exclusive with limited parking %26amp; threatening signs everywhere.

Stopped at Moloa’a Fruit Stand %26amp; Banana Joe’s for some fresh fruit and mango salsa for our BBQ.

Very long day of driving – so back to Anini for a quick swim, sunset %26amp; BBQ.

Sunday, 5/27:

Wake-Up Café in Hanalei for breakfast (sat on the lanai – great food!)

Drove out to Tunnels Beach (found the last parking spot just before 10am)

It was overcast when we arrived but cleared up quickly. Hardly anyone on the beach and the best snorkeling spot on Kauai! The deep lagoon between the reefs was dramatic and filled with cool fish but no turtles that day! We spent almost 4 hours here and didn’t want to leave…however the sun was getting brutal and we were hungry.

Stopped at Dolphin Fish Market in Hanalei again for some ahi and teriyaki shrimp to BBQ.

Also, Foodland in Princeville for a deli counter lunch.

Had a picnic in the shade on Anini beach, then headed out for Secret Beach. We really wanted to check out the lava pools and waterfall! Very cool, huge beach with lots of friendly people heading in the same direction (wear reef shoes for hopping the lava rocks!) Vowed to return and spend a full day…didn’t make it, maybe next visit!

On the way back, we diverted down the first Kalihiwai Rd to the end, then backtracked to the Kong Lung shopping center. (highly recommend the Island Soap %26amp; Candle Works for souvenirs)

BBQ at home %26amp; tended to our harsh sunburns! (too much of a good thing – even with lots of sunblock) At least we waited until late in our trip!

Monday, 5/28:

An overcast sunrise with light showers – we were very grateful!

Breakfast at home %26amp; took Amy on a repeat of my Wyllie Beach shore hike while the sun wasn’t blazing.

Headed over to Hanalei…hoping for some more Wishing Well but they were closed for Memorial Day. So we did some browsing in the Hanalei Center %26amp; settled for a very blah Shave Ice Paradise (walk up window in Java Kai bldg).

Discovered a really cool, exotic store…Havaiki Oceanic and Tribal Art! Turns out, they had just opened that day. This couple had traveled around the Pacific by sailboat for 4 years collected artwork to open this shop! Very interesting artwork and people. (Check out their story %26amp; amazing photos at: www.yachtfirebird.com) We ended up purchasing a Sago Shield from the Asmat tribe on Papua! It was kind of pricey but so unique %26amp; cool that we couldn’t resist.

Took the turn off at the Hanalei Bridge to explore the Wildlife Refuge…(a beautiful short drive on a narrow road)

Back to Anini for swimming %26amp; snorkeling

Back to Happy Talk Lounge for our last sunset, pupus %26amp; cocktails!

(We really dig this place – same views as Bali Hai restaurant with different live entertainment every night) Triedd the seared ahi, combo skewers trio %26amp; more cocktails! Excellent.

Straightened up the cottage and some light packing for our return.

Tuesday, 5/29:

It was really difficult to leave! Checked out at 10am and headed towards Lihue for our 1:09pm non-stop return flight to SFO. Stopped for some flight snacks and last minute souvenirs at Longs Drugs.

This was our first time on Kauai and there were so many sights and experiences that we missed (helicopter tour, Kipu Falls, Maha’ulepu Beach %26amp; Polihale Beach, etc…) but were consoled by telling ourselves that we were just saving things for our next visit! (I’m already tracking airfares for a 2 week stay). We had a rough itinerary planned but really “opted to go with the flow.” Every area that we explored, we also side tripped into local neighborhoods %26amp; side streets to try to get a “local view” of life on Kauai.

Speaking of which, almost all residents that we encountered from young surf punks to the elderly were warm and gracious. We didn’t encounter any road rage tailgating incidents as mentioned here, if anything I had to remind myself to slow down and take in the sights. We also had some concerns about securing our belongings in the convertible and while snorkeling. I actually brought a waterproof Pelican case and “fanny pack” for our valuables while snorkeling but never used them. Mind you, we weren’t on secluded beaches but we were never concerned. We just never left anything visible in the locked convertible and had no problems. (note: very small trunk)

If anything, we were more aghast at the behavior of some tourists we encountered. We witnessed some condescending behavior (at shops and restaurants) and disregard for the environment (feeding fish, climbing over reefs, littering…). I would imagine it gets worse as the summer season progresses. We loved the fact that it wasn’t the busy season because most kids are still in school.

Considering Amy’s illness early in our trip, we felt that we experienced quite a bit while still relaxing around our Anini Beach home base. Some days it was difficult to leave…We love Anini Beach and actually started investigating real estate, just in case we hit the lottery! Anini Vista would work out nicely, LOL!

Kauai has to be one of the most beautiful places on earth and we can’t wait to return!

Aloha!

Amy %26amp; Mycal

Trip Report - May 22-29 (Part Two) long

Thanks for the report -- glad you enjoyed it. I miss Kauai ...

Trip Report - May 22-29 (Part Two) long

Mahalo for the great reports - they were fun to read. By the way, you can order candles/soap online as well - I have done that for gifts, since I don%26#39;t get to Kauai as often as I would like!! I so agree with what you said about the people of Kauai . . . so gracious and kind. Glad they share the island with us!! :)

Sounds like you had a great time. Mahalo for taking the time to write and in such detail.

Again, mahalo mycal. Loved your reports. Anini is a favorite day-trip of mine...I actually swoon when I get to the end of the road at the stream, park, throw down a mat and begin looking for Niihau shells...however imperfect they are there. I know you will return to the island...once you have been there it feels as though one foot stays.

My perspective on Hanapepe town and other community or island arts and entertainment is in the 60,000+/- population of Kauai there are small pockets of local artists, craftspersons and musicians, etc., so that these sorts of activities are ';small and low key...less than ';funky'; and, I figure, in proportion to the island population. Once I got a handle on that and, to quote Goldilocks, everything seemed ';just right.'; Some of my most enjoyable events have been the non-commerce driven town festivals, musician showcases and KCC events. The annual Waimea town festival with the parade is a favorite of mine and draws a great crowd from all over the island, and tourists.

Aloha from Kaua%26#39;i!

Glad that you had such a nice time - despite Amy%26#39;s illness! Must be our crystal clear air and ocean tradewinds that helped her!

What was just said about our local ';arts scene'; is absolutely correct -- I know that lots of folks who visit here when they see an event advertised, such as the Polynesian Festival, Hanapepe Art Walk, etc. think ';great, let%26#39;s go'; and expect an event something of the size that they probably see in any medium sized town on the mainland. I know the Waimea Town Celebration (which is maybe the biggest event island-wide for all of us) is not terribly big -- some folks I%26#39;ve talked to can%26#39;t understand all the fuss over it.

However, we are so small here. For instance the Polynesian Festival -- it was actually HUGE compared to prior years -- that was a big event for the island community and it was very well attended.

But I did notice (I was there all 3 days as some friends were competing) that the crowd was 95% local residents, very few visitors opted to come -- probably for the reason of $10 admission and it looking pretty small for the price. But the feeling of community and getting to ';talk story'; with people from Tahiti, Cook Islands, etc. as well as the wonderful performances from keiki from ages 3 all the way up to adults -- it was one of those ';only on Kaua%26#39;i'; type events that I always say to myself ';lucky you live Kaua%26#39;i';!

The same thing with our Waimea Town Celebration, Koloa Plantation Days, any of our little local celebrations -- you just really have to scale down your expectations and enjoy it for what it is -- a small town experience in a very unique place.

Just a little ';pep talk'; about our local festivals, celebrations, etc.

As a very old commercial once said ';try it, you%26#39;ll like it!';

Malama Pono,

Janet

Very cool trip report, Mycal - thanks for sharing it!

We%26#39;re headed to Kauai in August and I CANNOT WAIT. :)

koloagirl...when I read ';must do'; or ';things to do'; posts, I try to rethink my pace and expectations. It is a giant step from the hustle and bustle, crowds and glitz on the mainland to the island paradise. Kauai insists that you slow down and take in all that you expect to escape to...just a week or two of sheer beauty, peace and quiet, manageable time and space and...unconditional love.

Mahalo everyone! Just wanted to ';pay back'; some of the enjoyment that we receive from reading everyone else%26#39;s tips %26amp; trip reports.

bjbert and koloagirl...

Thanks for sharing your perspectives on the arts community and the festivals on Kauai! I didn%26#39;t mean to sound so dismissive of Hanapepe and the Polynesian Festival in our report. I believe that you%26#39;re correct about our mainland perspective being somewhat jaded though. After all, even our suburban town 25 miles outside of San Francisco has 130,00+ people, double the population of Kauai!

I%26#39;m sure that we would have enjoyed the Festival if we had entered but it was at the end of a really long driving day. Anini Beach was calling us back! Hanapepe was really deserted though, everything was closed in the early afternoon. Perhaps everyone was resting up on Sat from the Friday Art Walk!

We genuinely love all street fairs/performances, open studio tours, really small coastal CA art towns, etc.. and should have checked out the Polynesian Festival. We%26#39;ll definitely be looking for events on our next visit...The Waimea Town Celebration sounds cool!

Best regards,

Mycal

Aloha Amy and Mycal...it is all part and parcel of the learning curve in visits to the island. Takes awhile to catch on and I sure understand your experiences. Your post affords first-time visitors a great heads up. Hopefully, the badly behaved tourists will read your post...but they are likely not T.A. members or readers.